A recent trip to Castlemaine, a charming town in regional Victoria, Australia, kicked off with a dinner at Bar Midland. Housed within the grand Midland Hotel, a historic landmark dating back to the 1870s, this establishment stands out with its elegant fusion of Art Deco and late Victorian architecture.
Opened in 2021 by head chef Alexander Marano and front of house and beverage director Loudon Cooper, Bar Midland prides itself on exclusively serving food, wine, and spirits that are grown and produced within the state of Victoria. This ethos dictates, for example, that in the absence of refined sugar, sweetness derives from honey, syrup, or vegetables (sugar beet was featured this evening). This commitment also extends to limiting meat options to wild, introduced species such as rabbit and venison.
“Bar Midland is a love letter to the state of Victoria and stands as a blueprint for the future of sustainable dining”.
The dining space, with its cosy arrangement of just 14 seats and dim lighting, emanates a charming intimacy. Positioned within view of the main bar, where Alex plates up each dish himself, all diners enjoy a front-row seat to the action.
The initial two courses, out of the seven-course lineup, are served without cutlery, fostering a laid-back atmosphere. As each dish arrives, Loudon guides diners through a detailed description of each element, underscoring the significance of the producer and the restaurant's underlying philosophy.
While the delicious bread is baked daily by Alex’s mum Nina, the standout is undoubtedly the gluten-free alternative: a crispy chickpea farinta. Rarely do gluten free options rival their regular counterparts, but here, it surpasses expectations. The restaurant goes above and beyond to ensure that all dishes requiring attention do not simply have ingredients stripped, but instead feature thoughtful replacements or alternatives. Even the printed menu received at the end of the meal reflects these changes, leaving no detail overlooked.
In keeping with its focus on local produce, Bar Midland opts out of French wines on its menu. Instead, it showcases Victorian beverage options, including Melbourne sake, Mildura sparkling wine, King Valley Aligoté, and Heathcote Nebbiolo. After sampling three whites, I settled on a 2021 Minim Fiano from Colbinabbin. This grape, native to southern Italy, thrives in Australia’s Mediterranean-esque regions. It entices with aromas of honey and beeswax, but has a chalky and bready character. With a weightier profile than my usual white wine preferences, its racy lemon acidity offers a refreshing contrast and leaves a pleasant, lingering aftertaste.
A fantastic third course, Mozzarella with dill oil, pistachio, and pangrattato, was unfortunately followed by a disappointing main dish. Venison wrapped in pickled radicchio fell short of expectations, lacking the tenderness one would anticipate. I had to leave more than half untouched on the plate.
Following a palate-cleansing pistachio sorbet, it was time to indulge in dessert. Provided that there’s a solid savoury lineup beforehand, a certain excitement inevitably comes over me when I glance at a degustation menu and discover multiple courses dedicated to sweets. When dining à la carte, friends often tease me about my penchant for ordering “one of everything” on the dessert menu. This habit has, on more than one occasion, elicited laughter from the waiter and subsequent disappointment ten minutes later when only a couple of plates show up at the table instead of the full lineup… don’t underestimate my capacity to consume desserts!
After Tedesca Osteria impressed me with their candied figs paired with olive oil and goat’s feta, Bar Midland unveiled another remarkable combination: figs with hazelnut amaretto and carob. I could have easily devoured another serving of this pastry delight.
By the time dessert came around, however, I found myself craving a cup of coffee, only to be quickly met with the realisation that it wouldn’t be on offer — Australia isn’t exactly renowned for its coffee bean production. With no black tea available either, I opted to try their Australian take on French Pommeau, a blend of apple cider and Calvados (in this case, an Australian apple brandy) aged in oak barrels. While it boasted a pleasant silky texture and mild sweetness, it seemed to lack the depth of flavour found in the traditional French version.
Mi-figue mi-raisin
Restaurants have a myriad of concerns beyond just cooking, plating, and delivering dishes to guests. Before a dish can even be ordered, decisions involving suppliers, transportation, and storage must be made. Opting for exclusively local ingredients presents its challenges for both chef and diner alike. For the kitchen, it forces creativity in flavour combinations and substitutions for popular ingredients. I must admit, however, that I am glad to not have simply been bombarded with finger limes like I was at Attica. No single ingredient dominated the menu, and the progression of dishes in terms of both size and flavour felt cohesive. For diners, the absence of familiar choices can be unsettling — no red Burgundy, no steak, no chocolate, and no espresso. Yet, there’s also a sense of reassurance in knowing that every element on the plate and in the cup is sourced locally.
While Bar Midland may not yet reach the culinary heights of some other restaurants, its unwavering commitment to sustainability is both commendable and extremely impressive. It’s an adaptation to modern challenges in an evolving climate. I would encourage everyone to experience Bar Midland firsthand and discover how sustainability can be both disconcerting and incredibly rewarding.